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Learning about the evolution and history of popular hair designs is a key part of a hair stylist’s education. If you’re considering going to hairstyling school, learning more about this aspect of the hair world will give you a leg up. Below is a brief overview of the history of the permanent wave, or perm—one of the most popular hair designs still in use today.

Beginnings

The first perm was performed by Karl Ludwig Nessler in 1905. After years of trial and error, he developed a system where hair was held away from the head and wrapped around electric metal rods or curlers, and then lye or caustic soda was applied. The curlers would then be heated to high temperatures and the hair left in place on them for several hours, resulting in permanent curls or waves.

While innovative and responsible for the demand for perms that drove later advancements, this method was cumbersome, expensive to perform, could burn hair, and posed a risk to hairstylists and customers alike.

Then, in 1917, Eugene Suter and Isidoro Calvete designed a system that prevented hair burn. While they still used caustic chemicals, they developed heaters that slid over the curling rods and had tapering heat. They heated the thicker roots of hair more than the thin ends.

Modern Improvements

hair designsWhile the industry continued to advance and refine the process to reduce risk to hair and clientele alike, the next major advancement came in 1938. Arnold F. Willat developed a system that used no heat or machinery but provided the same or superior results.

For this process, an ammonia solution was applied to hair to break down protein structures before hair was rolled around curlers. Once the hair was in place, an oxidizing solution was applied to reform the protein bonds, allowing the hair to take on the shape of the rollers more permanently.

Because it required no heat, it was called the “cold wave,” and it came as real research started on hair designs in cosmetic laboratories. Another advancement came in the 1970s with acid perms, which used gentler chemicals and low heat to minimize damage.

Today, perms tend to follow the cold wave method with an emphasis on the gentler features of acid perms, using sodium thioglycolate instead of ammonia. The lotion is applied to hair on curlers for up to half an hour, then it’s rinsed and dried. A neutralizing agent is applied to halt the process.

 

Is it your dream to pull off hair designs like the perm? The College of Hair Design in Lincoln, NE, is a hairstyling school that will help you reach your goals. Family-owned and -operated, they have over 55 years of experience, are accredited by the Accrediting Commission of Career Schools and Colleges, and offer hands-on training with real clients. Learn more about their courses online, and call (402) 474-4244 to start the enrollment process.

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