Surfing is the quintessential sport in Hawaii. Whether you're watching from a hotel lanai or lounging on the gorgeous beaches, you'll see surfers on the water all day. Here's a brief overview of the sport's history and culture to boost your appreciation of it.

Polynesian Origins

Known as he’enalu or “wave sliding,” surfing was one of the traditions that traveled to the Hawaiian Islands with Polynesian settlers. Early surfers began on belly boards before surfing in an upright position on longboards. The sport was a spiritual practice as well. Ancient chants represented the spiritual connection between the rider and their board as well as a prayer for big waves and the courage to ride them. Surfing was also the sport of chiefs, who treasured their boards.

Captain James Cook and Lieutenant James King of the “Discovery” documented surfing in the 1770s, with riders primarily using hardwood boards. By 1820, the area was Westernized to fit the ideals of newly arrived English and American missionaries. By the early 1900s, the sport began to decline.

The Shift to Recreation

In 1907, surfing made a comeback thanks to author Jack London’s arrival on Oahu and encounters with the Waikiki Swimming Club, a group of surfing enthusiasts. As London began writing about it, the sport attracted new participants. New clubs popped up and created many of the techniques present today. 

Modern surfing's beginning is largely credited to Duke Kahanamoku. Known as The Duke and The Big Kahuna, the Honolulu-born surfer won five swimming Olympic medals in 1912, and his impressive skills were displayed in movies. He was the first person inducted into the Surfing Hall of Fame and the Swimming Hall of Fame. As a result of his fame and public service, surfing was popularized worldwide. By the 1940s and 1950s, people began photographing surfers riding large waves.

Today, popular surf spots include Honolua, Jaws, and Ho'okipa, where locals enjoy the waves and guests watching from their hotel balconies can see some of the greatest surfing. 

Eddie Aikau's Mark

Sport legend Eddie Aikau was born in Kahului and later moved to Oahu. He is best known for riding major swells, with his 1967 ride standing as the biggest wave ever surfed in Waimea Bay. As the first official lifeguard in Honolulu, he inspired generations and saved hundreds of lives in the water. 

In 1977, Aikau accomplished his biggest win in the Duke Kahanamoku Invitational Surfing Championship. A year later, Aikau joined the cultural expedition of the double-hulled voyaging canoe Hōkūleʻa. Unfortunately, the voyagers hit treacherous waters and the canoe capsized. The next day, Aikau paddled toward Lanai to get help. While the rest of the crew was rescued by the U.S. Coast Guard, Aikau was never seen again. In the legend's honor, The Eddie Aikau Big Wave Invitational was established and is now in its 34th year.

If you're looking for a hotel to stay in while checking out the highlights of Hawaii's culture, including the surf spots, book at Napili Village Hotel. Since 1967, the family-owned hotel has provided comfortable, affordable lodgings for families. Their units include a spacious kitchen as well as unmatched ocean views. Call (808) 669-6228 or visit them online to book a room.